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For a sense of freedom, and the chance to do something arguably stupid and dangerous, there’s nothing like renting a motorbike and riding around a country with few to no traffic laws.
It’s one of our favorite things to do!
We spent a glorious day and a half motorbiking in Chiang Rai, Thailand between sites. Unfortunately we went about things the opposite way than we should have, turning up just as the White Temple was closing for lunch from 12-1pm, and arriving at the wrong time of day so both the White Temple and the Black House were backlit in our pictures. I wrote this so you can learn from our mistakes, maximize on natural sunlight for your pictures, and enjoy a day of motorbiking adventures in Chiang Rai.
Be warned: This journey is not for the faint hearted as you will be riding on busy Highway 1 for much of the trip. Many local people do this, so follow their lead by sticking to the left side of the road and use caution at all times. Remember, on a motorbike you are the little guy on the road, so take heed!
Here are the things you will see and experience on this one-day motorbike journey around Chiang Rai, and the best order to visit them based on the sunlight for photos:
1 The White Temple (Wat Rong Khun)
2 Khun Kon Waterfall (Hike 2.8 kilometers round trip to this 70 meter high waterfall)
3 Muslim Food at Rosprasert (If you’re hankering for an alternative to Thai and Western food)
4 Black House (Baan Dam)
Recommended to bring on your trip:
- 1 liter of water per person
- Sunscreen
- Snacks
- A map of Chiang Rai
- Something to cover knees and shoulders for the White Temple
- Camera
- Money for lunch/snacks
Step One: Rent a motorbike
To begin your journey, rent a motorbike from one of the numerous motorbike rental shops in town. Many are located around Jed Yod Temple. We rented an automatic 125cc bike from the shop pictured below on Jed Yod Road for 200 Baht/24 hours. We gave one passport as collateral, which they locked safely in a drawer until we returned. 60 Baht (about $2) filled our gas tank and should be enough for the entire journey, and then some.
We recommend beginning your journey much earlier in the morning than we did. Aim to hit the road by 8am, earlier if possible.
1st Destination: The White Temple (50 Baht for foreigners)
Getting there: The White Temple is located 12km south of Chiang Rai city center. Depending on where you rent your motorbike from, ask for directions to get to Highway 1. Drive south on Highway 1 for about 12km. You will see the White Temple from a distance. Be prepared to move into the right lane in order to make a right turn to reach it. Try not to miss the turn, like we did!
The White Temple opens at 6:30am, and since it faces east the golden glow of sunrise will make for some gorgeous pictures. Plus you’ll beat the throngs of tourists arriving by bus later in the morning and afternoon.
2nd Destination: Khun Kon Waterfall (Free)
Getting there: Khun Kon Waterfall is located 19km northwest of the White Temple. Continuing on the small road where the White Temple is located, follow the signs to Khun Kon Waterfall. There is a point when you have to turn right onto a smaller road leading up a mountain toward the falls. A sign directing you there will still say Khun Kon Waterfall, but is easy to miss (at least it was for us!), so keep your eyes peeled. You may see a sign for Canary Resort, which will also lead you to the correct road. Should you need to stop and ask for directions, there are many friendly locals willing to help you out. Trust us on that…
Once you arrive at the falls you can park your motorbike and begin the 1.4km hike to the falls. The path is shaded the whole way by a jungle canopy with tall bamboo stalks and beautiful flora. A dip in the pool at the base of the falls is the perfect way to cool down during the hottest part of the day.
In an effort to remain modest like the locals do, and having not planned ahead, we went swimming in all of our clothes. It actually worked quite well to beat the heat and we were dry again in no time!
If you get hungry there are many vendors in the area before the hike begins where you can stop to enjoy lunch or snacks.
3rd Destination: Rosprasert Muslim Restaurant
To get to the Black House will be a bit of a drive from the waterfall, about 30km, so you can alternatively stop back in Chiang Rai city center for a break and some lunch. If you do we highly recommend eating at Rosprasert. We stumbled upon this restaurant after making a wrong turn, and had one of the best meals we’ve ever had in Thailand-seriously! If you don’t make it there for lunch, try them for dinner. Note: The restaurant closes at 7:30pm.
Try the beef biriyani or Khao Soi noodles with chicken.
Getting there: To get to Rosprasert Muslim restaurant go back to Chiang Rai the way you came. From Highway 1 turn left onto Phaholyothin Road, the road in Chiang Rai lined with ornate golden pillars. Just past the Golden Clock Tower you’ll turn right onto Isaraphab Road. The restaurant is on the left-hand side, immediately past the mosque. If you have trouble finding it, ask anyone near the clock tower where to find the mosque.
4th Destination: The Black House (80 Baht for Thais and non-Thais)
The Black House is about 10km north of Chiang Rai city center on Highway 1. It is not clearly marked along the way, so follow these directions for an easier time finding it.
Getting there: Going north on Highway 1 you’ll cross a river and pass the airport. Once you pass the airport begin to look out for Rajabaht University. Once you pass Rajabaht University keep your eyes peeled for a wooden sign in Thai with the number 13 about 1.5km ahead and turn left. The number 13, meaning Street 13, is the important part! In about half a kilometer you’ll come across a blue sign in Thai where you’ll make another left. The Black House is just a few minutes ahead. We haven’t been back to the Black House since 2016, but hopefully there is better signage now to help you get there!
Although we had a wonderful day motorbiking in Chiang Rai, this would have been a better order to see the sites. If you decide to do this one-day trip or have any questions, please email us or leave them in the comments.
Arnav Mathur says
Looks like you had a fun time taking the bike around Chiang Rai in Thailand. This post has inspired me to do something similar in Vietnam and Cambodia .
Jennifer Joslin says
That’s great Arnav! Cambodia and Vietnam are also great places to explore by motorbike.
Tami says
The White Temple is still beautiful — even backlit by the sun! I don’t think I’d be motorbiking, but I wouldn’t mind seeing all the wonderful places you highlighted here in Chiang Rai.
Jennifer Joslin says
The White Temple is so beautiful, Tami! All of these places are worth seeing, and you can definitely find other means of transport to get to them. I’m sure that you could take a public bus close to both the White Temple and Black House, as they are both off of a main road.
Claire says
Sad I didn’t have time to go here on my last trip to Thailand…Next time though. Although i think I would have to find a different way of getting there. There is no way I could go on a bike, I’m too much of a scaredy cat haha. Good for you for taking on the adventure!
Jennifer Joslin says
There’s always next time 🙂 It’s totally possible to get to the White Temple and Black House without a motorbike. I think you could take a public bus and then walk a bit, or hire a cab.
Kasia says
Beautiful adventure! I wish I have a driving licence I would love to do the same thing, just to feel free and go whenever I want to 🙂 I know it might be dangerous sometimes too, but all you have to do is just be careful. Thailand is beautiful and I have visited most of the best places there but still want to be back and discover some more 🙂
best,
Kasia
Jennifer Joslin says
Hi Kasia, thanks for your comment 🙂 It might be worth getting a driving license before your next trip so you have the option of renting a motorbike. It’s a great way to explore and have more freedom! Our next step is getting International Driver’s Licenses so we can rent cars as well 🙂
Paige W says
I’m heading to Chiang Rai this fall! I wish that I had more confidence in my motorbike skills! Maybe I’ll find a great local guide that we can hitch a ride with! That waterfall looks UNREAL!
Jennifer Joslin says
That’s a great idea, Paige! Being a passenger on a motorbike is a lot of fun too, and less stress 🙂
Dorene says
I admire that you guys rented a motorbike there. We did it Koh Samui and that was enough for us! Thanks for the tour of Chiang Rai – its a great spot and thanks for the food tips too!
Jennifer Joslin says
Koh Samui looks amazing. Must have been a really fun place to motorbike around! Thanks for reading 🙂
amit says
I really regret that we missed doing Chang Rai when I was in Thailand, I did do Chang-Mai but heard so many good things about Chang Rai. This post has made me want to pack my backs and get the first flight out to Thailand (I’ve done it before) haha – Thanks for this 😀
Jennifer Joslin says
Haha that’s awesome Amit 😀 Chiang Mai is amazing too, we love it there! Definitely recommend Chiang Rai for next time.
Karla says
I’ve been here, we did try to rent a motorbike but then I have to learn how to ride it first. It wasn’t as easy as I thought it would be but it would be a good way to get around.
Jennifer Joslin says
It’s definitely good to practice riding a motorbike somewhere that’s not too busy until you get the hang of it. I definitely wouldn’t recommend this route for first time riders since it takes you on both big, busy roads and small bumpy ones.
sherianne says
There is no way I would rent a motorcycle and do this, I’m way too much of a chicken! Great heads up about the lighting and MAN! that waterfall!!!
Jennifer Joslin says
Ya, we totally blew it on the lighting lol. It doesn’t make you a chicken! Probably just makes you more sensible than us 😀
Eric || The Bucket List Project says
Great post! One of my biggest regrets when I went to Thailand was not spending another couple of days and taking the side trip to Chiang Rai! I really really wanted to see the white temple! Oh well give me a reason to go back. I totally understand the insanity of driving or riding a motor type vehicle in another country because we just did a car race across India for 2 weeks and a motorized to to and it was absolutely the stupidest and awesomest thing we’ve ever done. I’ve never heard of the black house what was the significance of it?
Jennifer Joslin says
Oh my gosh, that sounds insane!! Was it the tuk tuk race? That’s something we’ve looked into and are thinking about doing! The Black House is actually a series of buildings housing a collection of artwork, skulls, and animal skins. It was built by Chiang Rai born Thai artist Thawan Duchanee to represent the darkness in humanity. Pretty wild and bizarre stuff!
Kavey Favelle says
I’m too chicken to rent motorbikes on holiday as I don’t ride them at home so I’d not only be unfamiliar with riding one but also battling the unknown road “rules” and craziness at the same time. That said, I can see it’s a totally fun way to travel and see the sights as you go. The temples do look incredible.
Jennifer Joslin says
This route is definitely not for brand new riders, but if you ever have a chance to try out motorbiking in a less hectic place, it’s definitely worth doing! If not, you can get to all these sites by other modes of transport 🙂
LeAnna says
We’ve been to Thailand several times and I know that renting a motorbike is a great way to get around, but I could never muster up the courage!!!